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Food Sites for August 2022

Wednesday, July 13, 2022

  

A couple of young tomatoes... 

 

...that might even ripen sometime in August. We’re not really vegetable gardeners, so—up to this moment—these tomatoes are pure expectation. But, as Laurie Colwin opined, “a world without tomatoes is like a string quartet without violins.” 


For now—we’re holding our breath.

 

We’ve posted A LOT to our Substack newsletter, lately. “What’s It All About, Anyway?” attempts to solve one of life’s great mysteries (with predictable results). ”In the Beginning...” is the lurid tale of how an innocent illustrator was turned to the dark side (i.e., taking up writing). “More Early-day Stuff...” provides a bit of the back story of how Human Cuisine came to be compiled. “Truth, Justice, and the Angling Way“ combines—unlikely as you might expect—lying, fishing, and seventeenth-century English poetry. It’s a story excerpted from Prophet Amidst Losses. “Watch Out for My Uncle... He’s a Cannibal!“ tries to explain our former preoccupation with anthropophagy (adapted from How to Serve Man: On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating) “77 Years Ago...” is a creation story (and only tangentially about the formation of radioactive isotopes). It comes with a poem. “You Must Remember This...” refers to an excerpt from Cenotaphs. It’s fantastic (but only in the sense that it’s just a fantasy).

 

A free Substack subscription will automatically deliver—under cover of darkness—such things to your virtual mailbox. In unrelated news, our poem “Trekking the Osteo Path,” was published in July 12th issue of Stunning Poetry (a digital newsletter by Silent Spark Press).

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing

 

August is high summer, hence these comments from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:


Summer cooking implies a sense of immediacy, a capacity to capture the fleeting moment. Elizabeth David

 No dish changes quite so much from season to season as soup. Summer’s soups come chilled, in pastel colors strewn with herbs. If hot they are sheer insubstantial broths afloat with seafood. Florence Fabricant

Cold soup is a very tricky thing and it is the rare hostess who can carry it off. More often than not, the dinner guest is left with the impression that had he only come a little earlier he could have gotten it while it was still hot. Fran Lebowitz

 

Gary
August 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our virtual hat to Fabio Parasecoli), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —

 

Bengal’s Ethnic Sweetmeats—An Unconventional Food: History, Tradition, Culture

(PDF of a paper on the complex range of Bengali dishes—candies/desserts—written by Tanmay Sarkar, Molla Salauddin, et. al)

 

Chicken and Waffles: The Pennsylvania Story

(William Woys Weaver served it up in the Fall 2020 issue of Pennsylvania Heritage)

 

“Delectable Foods”: This 13th-Century Cookbook Reveals a World of Delicious Recipes

(report of the discovery—and subsequent translation—of a rare cookbook by Andalusi scholar Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī, with recipes, in London’s Financial Times)

 

Fashionable Food

(Annie Ewbank’s reminiscences about the golden age of department store dining, in Gastro Obscura)

 

Food in Medieval Times

(PDF of Melitta Weiss Adamson’s 2004 book)

 

Guide to Cornstarch, A

(the plot thickens in Tim Chin’s Serious Eats story)

 

How a “Bubble Expert” Decoded the Physics of Making Mezcal

(María Paula Rubiano A., at Gastro Obscura, on learning why—and how—traditional proofing methods work)

 

How to Make the Perfect Cup of Italian Coffee

(Adam H. Graham’s history of the Moka pot, in the American Express magazine, Departures)

 

Invention of Modern Baby Formula, The

(Claudia Gelb, at Eater, traces its development to nineteenth century scientists)

 

MSG Convert Visits the High Church of Umami, An

(Helen Rosner enhances the flavor of “The Annals of Gastronomy” in The New Yorker)

 

Origins of Fake Meat Are Rooted in Chinese Cooking, The

(Ruby Lott-Lavigna’s Vice article about traditional Buddhist vegetarian cookery and its modern incarnations)

 

Paneer and the Origin of Cheese in India

(Aditya Raghavan’ history in The Hindu)

 

Purple Corn, Coyol Sap & Legume Pods of Guanacaste & Nicoya

(Nicholas Gill’s New Worlder post about the “wild foods and ancestral agriculture in northwestern Costa Rica)

 

Tale of Two Buds, A: The Centuries-Old Feud Between American Budweiser and Czech Budweiser

(Brit Dawson’s Mel Magazine article blows the foam off a long-standing dispute)

 

Unhealthy, Smelly, and Strange: Why Italians Avoided Tomatoes for Centuries

(William Alexander’s answer, at Literary Hub; an excerpt from Ten Tomatoes That Changed the World)

 

Warm Belly

(“unheard food stories” from “the many different cuisines within the U.K.”—and around the world)

 

What is Fermentation?

(Danilo Alfaro addresses—in The Spruce Eats—the differences between methods that produce lactic acid, ethyl alcohol, and acetic acid)


Why Does Spicy Food Make You Sweat?

(an Inverse article in which “a neuroscientist breaks it down”)

 

Words We Use for Food, The

(what, exactly, does “organic,” or “certified organic,” or “certified naturally grown” really mean? John Porter has the answers in Mother Earth News)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

3 Best Angles for Incredible Food Photography, The

 

Book Review: Notes from a Small Kitchen Island

 

Busting the Myth: YouTube Was My Nigerian Family Cookbook

 

Citrus Paradisi

 

Cooking History–How Food Inspired Events Can Enrich Museum Engagement

 

Cooking Through History with the Hofstra Special Collections

 

Epicurus on Wine Education and Its Perils

 

Father’s Recipe That Crossed Three Continents, A

 

Food and Faulkner: Stability and Nourishment Amidst Chaos in The Sound and the Fury

 

Grammar Check

 

“Hangry Is a Real Thing”: Psychologists Find Link Between Hunger and Emotions

 

How Did the Diner Menu Get So Long?

 

Infinite Ellipses of Ritual and Flavor

 

Inside the Colorful, Campy, Unapologetically Horny World of Erotic Cookbooks

 

Know Me Come Eat with Me

 

On the Rigidity of Recipe Writing

 

On Writing (and Not Writing) About Mutton Biryani

 

Romance Novels Are Increasingly Getting Hot and Heavy in the Kitchen

 

Simple Styling Tricks for More Appealing Food Photography

 

Sniffing Out a Cure for Smell Loss

 

Suiting the Local Taste Preferences: Stories of Transformation of Foods

 

Traditional English Food with Strange Names

 

Unbreakable Rules of the Chicago Dog—and When to Bend Them, The

 

Water: Elixir of Taste

 

What Our Fantasies About Futuristic Food Say About Us

 

Whipped Cream, No Other Delights

 

Why Do We Remember More by Reading in Print Vs. on a Screen?

 

Why Write?

 

Wine is Worth It, The

 

Writers Shouldn’t Talk: Stop Encouraging Them

 

You Can Spot Climate Change in Old Restaurant Menus

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

4 Tricks to Isolate Your Subject in iPhone Food Photography

 

Brief History of Dumplings, A

 

Can a Cocktail Trend Be Ironic?

 

F Word, The: Fatphobia in the Food Industry

 

Grain and Finance

 

Grandma Ida’s Nut Rolls Gravestone

 

Meet the Shaman Using Ancient Chocolate Rituals to Revive Mayan Traditions

(unfortunately, many ads)

 

Simple Tips for Magazine-Worthy Drink Photography


This Is Kwame Onwuachi’s America (and We’re Just Living in It)

 

What Cheese Looks Like Around the World

 

What Leopold Bloom’s Food Diary Tells Us about Bloomsday

 

World’s Oldest Edible Ham

 

 

— changed URL —

 

Pass the Chipotle

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #262 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.

 

 



Food Sites for July 2022

Friday, June 10, 2022

  

Not yet grapes, let alone wine...

 

Folks’ gardens are just beginning to yield seasonal delights‑but they contain the promise of so much more, in another month or so. 


Speaking of promises—that lead to larger than expected returns—we just realized that this issue marks the twenty-second year of publishing them. Someone recently posted that “Gary Allen has been writing about food for more years than most readers have been alive.” It was just a tad hyperbolic, but one wonders what else we could have been doing during those decades. 


Probably better not to linger too long on that thought. 


Maybe we should go shopping for some 22-year-old wine—or bourbon—to mark the anniversary.

 

Anyway—in the past monthe we’ve continued posting to our Substack newsletter. “I'll Take Schadenfreude for Five Hundred, Alex” features a story from Prophet Amidst Losses. The scene opens in a restaurant, but slides (quite literally, I’m afraid) precipitously downhill from there. “Call Any Vegetable...” leads to samples from Terms of Vegery; it’s about food only in the most frivolous fashion imaginable. “Once Upon a Time…” is another Substack post; it’s an excerpt from Backstories (which is not, at all, about food). A free subscription will automatically deliver these things to your virtual mailbox—in a virtual plain-brown wrapper—and no one will be the wiser (including you).

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a LOT of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing

 

A few summery comments from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:

 

Summer cooking implies a sense of immediacy, a capacity to capture the fleeting moment. Elizabeth David


A vegetable garden in the beginning looks so promising and then after all little by little it grows nothing but vegetables, nothing but vegetables. Gertrude Stein

Although the frankfurter originated in Frankfurt, Germany, we have long since made it our own, a twin pillar of democracy along with Mom’s apple pie. In fact, now that Mom
s apple pie comes frozen and baked by somebody who isn’t Mom, the hot dog stands alone. What it symbolizes remains pure, even if what it contains does not. William Zinsser

Gary
July 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Jonell Galloway), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —

 

70 Percent of the World’s Macadamia Nuts Came from One Tree in Australia

(Sabrina Imbler followed the genetic trail to Hawaii for Gastro Obscura)

 

Before Chickens Were Nuggets, They Were Revered

(Nick Erickson’s New York Times article on recent work by bioarchaeologists and evolutionary biologists)

 

Black Creole Chef Who Paved the Way for Food TV, The

(Kayla Stewart’s account, in The Bittman Project, about the influential, but barely remembered, Lena Richard)

 

Building Blocks: Tortillas, a Culture’s DNA

(María Ítaka’s homage at Culinary Backstreets)

 

Cheese Mountains, Milk Lakes, and Other Surprising Stockpiles

(Gastro Obscura’s Diana Hubbell examines the economics and absurdities of governmental warehousing of surplus foodstuffs)

 

Diplomats and the Rise of “Foodism” in the 1960s and 1970s

(Rachel Laudan’s musings about why so many of the most influential food writers came from a career that had nothing to do with food)

 

Dry Martini

(Roger Angell’s New Yorker paeon—a long leg and a triangle—to the most classic of cocktails)

 

Food Pairings: An Investigation into Why Foods Pair Well Together

(a 2013 master’s thesis by Mark Gaffney)

 

From Tiger Paws to White Claws: The 40-Year History of Flavored Seltzer Water

(VinePair’s Tim McKirdy on flavored fizzy water that isn’t an egg cream)

 

History of Ricotta Cheese, A

(Clifford Wright’s account of traditional ricotta made from whey)

 

How America Embraced Aspics with Threatening Auras

(Diana Hubbel’s Gastro Obscura article on the past and future of “perfection salads,” the complicated gelatin dishes that frighten, amuse, and attract us strangely)

 

Israelite Pottery and Household Life

(Jennifer Drummond’s article, in Bible History Daily, on food storage methods in ancient Israel)

 

Long History of Fragrant Food in India, from Massaging Hens with Musk to Cooking in Leaves, The

(Priyadarshini Chatterjee’s article, in Scroll.in, on a thousand years of perfumed cookery)

 

Man and The Mix, The

(Todd Coleman’s Saveur article about the real-life Duncan Hines)

 

Monkey Wine

(an article, on Dwight Furrow’s Edible Arts, on theories about how grape wine was first discovered)

 

New Insights on Ancient Spice Trade

(archaeological evidence of bi-directional trade in the Middle East; reporting on research published in Antiquity: ”Caravanserai Middens On Desert Roads: A New Perspective on the Nabataean-Roman Trade Network Across the Negev”)

 

Periodic Graphics: Baking Soda Versus Baking Powder

(Andy Brunning on leavening agents—other than yeast or other microbes—in Chemical & Engineering News)

 

Plants and People: Choices and Diversity through Time

(PDF of 2014 monograph by Alexandre Chevalier, Elena Marinova,and Leonor Peña-Chocarro)

 

Prove Me Wrong: The Margarita Is the Madonna of Cocktails

(VINEPAIR’s Katie Brown pours a social history of the popular tequila drink)

 

Quest to Recreate a Lost and ‘Terrifying’ Medieval Mead, The

(Gemma Tarlach’s experiments with making mead with caramelized honey; recipe and explanation in Gastro Obscura)

 

Remaking History: Using Ancient Egyptian Techniques, I Made Delicious Olive Oil at Home—And You Can Too

(an adventure in experimental archaeology, in The Conversation)

 

Sweet and Sour History of NYC’s Pickle Alley, The

(Nicole Saraniero whets our appetite for a talk on the subject, at Untapped Cities)

 

Variety in Cereal Production in the Late Bronze and Early Iron Ages in Relation to Environmental Conditions

(2013 article in the Journal of Archaeological Science, by Dagmar Dreslerova, et. al.)

 

We Are What We Eat

(Katheryn C Twiss’s 2007 paper in The Archaeology of Food and Identity; PDF)

 

What Is American Cheese, Anyway?

(J. Kenji López-Alt Krafts an answer at Serious Eats)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

5 Tips for Keyword Research for Food Bloggers

 

50 of the World’s Best Breads

 

Abuelita’s Kitchen: Mexican Food Stories

 

As Police Use “Foodie” to Recruit, What Does the Word Mean?

 

Behind the Design: LEON: Ingredients & Recipes

 

Brain-Gut Connection, The

 

Climate Change Is Now on the Menu at Seafood Restaurants

 

Cube Rule of Food Identification, The

 

Dining and Wine

 

El Rey Zapoteco: The Matron of Mezcal

 

Greatest Food Hoaxes of All Time, The

 

Here’s How Day Drinking Affects Your Body Differently, According to Experts

 

How a 50s Food Writer Championed Kerala’s Cuisine, One Column at a Time

 

José Andrés: The Power of Food

 

Numbers Driving New Cookbook Deals, The

 

On “In a bowl, combine...”

 

Review: The Automat

 

Riveting Memoir of Life as a Chef with an Eating Disorder, A

 

Should You Start a Newsletter? David Lebovitz Weighs In

(subscription required)

 

Weekly Special

 

When Cake Imitates Art

 

When My Husband Left Me, I Headed for the Kitchen–Here’s How Comfort Food Can Save the Soul

 

Why Don’t We Eat Horses?

 

Why Is Every Cookbook a Memoir Now?

 

World War Wednesday: We Eat Because We Work

 

 

— more blogs —

 

Finom—The Food of Hungary

 

Great Food, Big Love, and Miss Emily Meggett

 

World History of Food

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

Andrew Zimmern’s Wild Game Kitchen

 

Chine: Dans le Restaurant du Futur, des Robots Cuisinent et Servent les Clients

 

Dear Writer: Advice on Writing Through Isolation

 

Meat & Three: A Culinary Book Club

 

Nitty Grits

 

On the Line

 

Pretend Cooking Show

 

Scoop on Ice Cream, The

 

Something Fishy: Garum, Liquamen and Muria—What’s in a Name?

 

Tastemade

 

Why Only 1% of Japan’s Soy Sauce Is Made This Way

 

YesChef

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:

 

As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #261 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


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