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Food Sites for December 2021

Friday, November 12, 2021


 Preserved for winter.


November delivered our first killing frost. 


There was a time, not that long ago, in our collective memory, when gardens died each year—and, if we didn’t “put food by”—we would too. It wasn’t a joke when people alluded to “the dead of winter.” But countless generations filled root cellars [speaking of which, make sure to check out The Botanist in the Root Cellar, below] with carrots and turnips and beets and potatoes—plus jars (or barrels) of all sorts of pickled produce. Their attics held strings of dried fruits, mushrooms, and herbs. Sometimes, they’d bury apples, layered with straw, the longest-keeping varieties at the bottom, to be exhumed through the dark months of the year. 


By the end of winter everyone would be mighty tired of preserved food. But Spring would always come (at least for those who had prudently prepared before the Winter) and jaded appetites rediscovered fresh food. Today, a quick trip to the supermarket allows us to eat anything we want, anytime we want, and seasons have been rendered irrelevant. Of course, all of that out-of-season produce—shipped from far-away places—comes with a price, the biggest of which is flavor. Perhaps a winter of pickles was not too much to pay for the joy of encountering the first ripe in-season strawberry of Spring?


We haven’t published anything new this month—shocking, right?—but we have begun writing a sort of nostalgic novella. Tentatively titled Beer Taste (on a Champagne Budget), its a little like The Wonder Years, but with food—and recipes.


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


We’ve dug into the pantry for a few excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:

 

The jelly—the jam and the marmalade,
And the cherry-and quince-“preserves” she made!
And the sweet-sour pickles of peach and pear,
With cinnamon in ‘em, and all things rare!
And the more we ate was the more to spare,
Out to old Aunt Mary’s! Ah! James Whitcomb Riley


The rule is, jam to-morrow and jam yesterday—but never jam today. Lewis Carroll


Marmalade in the morning has the same effect on taste buds that a cold shower has on the body. Jeanine Larmoth


In the last analysis, a pickle is a cucumber with experience. Irena Chalmers

Gary
December, 2021


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Sheila Ratcliffe), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


Are Vegetables Winning?

(New York Magazine article, by Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite, on meatless options in the Big Apple)


Botanist in the Root Cellar, The

(the taxonomy of all the foods we casually refer to as “roots”)


Chicago Brewseum

(dedicated to preserving the culture & history of beer, they don’t have a physical location yet—but the museum has coordinated exhibits elsewhere and has even developed a few beers of its own)


Culinary Detectives Try to Recover the Formula for a Deliciously Fishy Roman Condiment

(Taras Grescoe’s article, in Smithsonian, about trying to recreate the long-lost garum sociorum)


Female Cooks Who Shaped French Cuisine, The

(Rachel E. Black’s essay about women in the celebrated kitchens of Lyon, in Zocalo; an excerpt from Cheffes de Cuisine: Women and Work in the Professional French Kitchen)


foodtank

(“the think tank for food;” articles about responsible food systems, sustainability, etc.)


From Pythagorean to Pescatarian; The Evolution of Vegetarianism

(Tori Avey’s account, fresh from The History Kitchen)


Fry Bread Is Beloved, but Also Divisive

(Kevin Noble Maillard’ New York Times article on a Native American foodstuff with a history that shares origins that are similar to that of “soul food”)


Great Organic-Food Fraud, The

(Ian Parker’s New Yorker exposé of why things are not always what they seem—or claim to be)


How Korean Cuisine Got Huge in America (and Why It Took So Long)

(John Surico gets an answer from Matt Rodbard—one of the authors of Koreatown: A Cookbook—for Serious Eats)


Is Coffee Good for You?

(Dawn MacKeen on the latest medical opinion, in The New York Times)


Let the Wine Flow

(Nathan Steinmeyer’s report, in Bible History Daily, on the excavation of a Byzantine winery at Tel Yavne, in Israel)


Olives for Ancient Eating

(Jonathan Laden’s report on archaeological work in Israel; in Bible History Daily)


Outline View (with links)

(The Botanist in the Kitchen’s taxonomic table of food plants grouped by their botanical relationships)


People All Over the World Love Adobo—But What Is It?

(whether it’s from Spain, Mexico, the Philippines, or Puerto Rico, Bettina Makalintal has the answer at Bon Appetit)


Search for the Competitive Edge: A History of Dietary Fads and Supplements

(Louis Grivetti’s 1997 paper in The Journal of Nutrition)


True Story of Pizza Margherita: a Food Fit for a Queen, The

(Francine Segan traces the ancient roots of pizza for La Cucina Italiana)


Untold Story of Sushi in America, The

(Daniel Fromson’s New York Times article about the connection between sushi and the Rev. Sun Myung Moon)


What Is A Potato Anyway?

(Amiel Stanek‘s article, in Bon Appétit, offers a quick answer)


World War Wednesday: Save a Loaf a Week

(Sarah Wassberg Johnson’s blog, The Food Historian, looks at food rationing campaigns during World War I)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


Building Blocks: Chapulines, a Bug’s Culinary Life in Oaxaca


Definitive History of Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate Chip Cookies, The


Does Wine Have a Subject Matter?


Feast for the Soul


Flavor, Memory, and Emotion


Free Man of Color Whose Invention Revolutionized the Sugar Industry, The


How a Librarian and a Food Historian Rediscovered the Recipes of Moorish Spain


How Capicola Became Gabagool: The Italian New Jersey Accent, Explained


How Much Syrup Can a Doughnut Leak?


How to Cook from a Historical Recipe


How to Make Twitter a Better Place—With Emotional Food Memories


How to Start a Writing Podcast


In Shanghai, Teahouses Offer Both Community and Solitude


Laurie Colwin’s Recipe for Being Yourself in the Kitchen


London Chef Elizabeth Haigh’s Cookbook Withdrawn After Plagiarism Allegations


On Aroma and Emotion


Return of the American Rail Dining Car, The


Rise and Rise of Mother Gin, The


Small Cautionary Tale about Cookbooks and Authenticity, A


Traveling the World for Recipes, but Always Looking for Home


Tweezer Cuisine


Two Mustard Seeds, Lime-Sized Balls of Tamarind, and Hand Smells


U.S. Restaurant Criticism Was Evolving Well Before Covid-19. The Pandemic Revealed Why Critics Need to Keep Embracing Change.


Why Cookbook Stores Are the Antidote We Need Right Now


Writing about Food IS Writing



— more blogs —


British Food: A History


Food Section, The



— podcasts, etcetera —


Art of Eating, The (Calhum Trailer Final)


Barbara Haber: The Lioness at the Library


Buried Treasure: Weeds, Seeds, and Zombies


Conversation with Melissa Clark, A


Cookbooks with Virginia


“Every Time You Make A Recipe, You Take A Risk,” An Interview With David Sutton


How We Find Our Writer’s Voice, with Dianne Jacob


Inside Julia’s Kitchen


JULIA | Official Trailer (2021)


New Book Brings Foodies on a Global Culinary Adventure


Rise and Folly of the Refugee Cookbook, The


Taste of Louisiana, A: Mainstreaming Blackness Through Food in The Princess and the Frog


Tip of the Tongue 100: 100th Episode Special with Ken Albala


Why the Recession Helped the Donut


Why You Should Eat Oysters at Home (And How to Shuck Them!)


Women Left Out of Cocktail History, The


Zest, The



— changed URL —


Oyster Varieties




— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #254 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2021 by Gary Allen.


Food Sites for November 2021

Tuesday, October 12, 2021

Benjamin Franklin’s choice for the national bird


If you have ever had any interest in preserving your current body shape, remember your Dante. “Abandon all hope, ye who enter” the gluttonous circle of hell that we like to call “La Grande Abbuffata.” After all, if we weren’t meant to be overweight, why would Christmas, Hannukah, Kwanzaa, Thanksgiving, and New Year’s Eve be heaped onto our plates—each one more densely caloric than the last—just as the year gives up the ghost?


Changing the subject, abruptly: We discovered that one of our articles “Knocking Trout Off Its Perch,” is no longer available on Drexel University’s Table Matters website—so we posted it on our blog, Just Served. We changed the title to “Spring and the Nature of Eating” (which was the original title, anyway).


You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.


And now to pluck a few seasonally-appropriate excerpts from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:


In so far as God has partly revealed to us an angelic world, he has partly told us what an angel means. But God has never told us what a turkey means. And if you go and stare at a live turkey for an hour or two, you will find by the end of it that the enigma has rather increased than diminished. G. K. Chesterton


If the soup had been as warm as the wine; if the wine had been as old as the turkey; and if the turkey had had a breast like the maid, it would have been a swell dinner. Duncan Hines


The pilgrims were kicked out of England, quarreled with the Dutch, alienated the Indians, and had an evil reputation among the turkeys. Dave Beard


Don’t assume you’re always going to be understood. I wrote in a column that one should put a cup of liquid in the cavity of a turkey when roasting it. Someone wrote me that “the turkey tasted great, but the plastic cup melted.” Heloise

Gary
November, 2021


PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Cynthia Bertelsen and Cara De Silva), thanks, and keep them coming!


PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.



— the new sites —


4 Cholesterol Myths It’s Officially Time to Stop Believing, According to Dietitians

(Karla Walsh sets the record straight, for allrecipes)


Automated Restaurants, Past and Present

(Annie Ewbank’s Gastro Observer article about food on the move)


Battle of the Bubbles, A: War Comes to the Prosecco Hills

(what’s in a name? Jason Horowitz writes, in The New York Times, about the ensuing battle between the producers of Italian prosecco and Croatian prosek)


Book of Bread, The

(PDF of Owen Simmons’ 1903 professional how-to-manual/photobook)


Can the Iconic Georgia Peach Keep Growing in a Warming South?

(Sarah Gibbens discusses the effects of climate change on the fuzzy fruit in National Geographic)


Cook in Spanish: Bi-lingual Gastronomic Vocabulary

(from “alfalfa” to “yellowtail”—“alfalfa” to “jurel;” a PDF)


Death of the Wine Critic Has Left a Hangover, The

(Jason Wilson’s lament/complaint, at Pix)


Ethiopia’s Wild Coffee Forests

(GastroObserver’s interview with Jeff Koehler, author of Where the Coffee Grows Wild)


Food Culture and Literary Imagination in Early Modern Italy. The Renaissance of Taste

(Allen J Grieco announces Laura Giannetti’s first volume in the series Food Culture, Food History before 1900 for the Amsterdam University Press; the book is here)


Guide to Thai Curries, A

(Pailin Chongchitnant’s article at Serious Eats; with definitions, recipes, and links to more recipes)


History of Börek, A

(Alexander Lee’s account of ubiquitous stuffed pastries dating back to the Ottomans and beyond; article at History Today)


How to Read a Wine Label, in 12 Easy Lessons

(Eric Asimov’s answer in The New York Times)


Massive Kitchens, Unique Tastes: India’s Ancient Temple Cuisine Sits in a Class of Its Own

(Rakesh Kumar’s report for CNN Travel)


Saint Hyacinth of Pierogi

(Karol Palion’s blog, Forking Around with History, takes on the questionable connection between saint and Polish stuffed dumplings)


Transpacific Trade Route & Its Influence on Mexican Cuisine, The

(Candelaria Donají Méndez Tello and Blanca Estela Leyva Gutiérrez on “the exchange of plants, seeds, spices and people,”—a different story than the well-known Columbian Exchange—for imagine-mexico.com)


Types of Plums: Black, Red, and More Varieties (with Pictures)–Including Plumcots, Apriums, and Pluots

(lots of details, from Leafy Place)


West African Influence on Mexican Rice Cultivation and Gastronomy

(excerpt from Marco Polo Hendández Cuevas’ book, The Afro-Mexican Ancestors and the Nation They Constructed)


When Life Gives You Lemons, It’s a Status Symbol: On the Evolving Literary and Cultural History of Citrus

(Jean Huang jumps from Little Women to the literary, historic, and archaeological evidence—for Literary Hub)


Wine Tasting, Vineyards, in France

(photographer Bertrand Celce visited a vast number of French vineyards and interviewed their winemakers)



— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —


7 of the Oldest Recipes in History


Apparently, Some People Can’t Be Bothered With Food


Claudia Roden: “What Do I Want from Life Now? Having People Around My Table”


Cookery Books: Britains Gift to America


Digitized “What’s the Recipe for a Queer Cookbook” Exhibit


Drexel Food Lab’s Deutsch Shares Future of Foodtech


Food Wars, The


Generate Free Barcodes Online


Gundruk, The


Inside the Company Printing America’s Community Cookbooks


ISSUE 36, PICNIC, Part 1: The Heart of the Picnic


Just 10 Companies Control Most of the World’s Food & Beverages


Spoof of a Saveur Story Might Go Like This..., A


Tea or Coffee?


Ten Things Nobody Tells You About the Publishing Industry


We Share More than Food at the Table, Says Culinary Historian Jessica Harris


Who Called the Carbonara Police?


Wine, Food, and Nostalgia



— another blog —


Chandri’s Kitchen



— podcasts, etcetera —


Calendar of Virtual Food History Talks, Cook-Alongs, Demos


EatsDrinksTV


Kitchen Whisperers with Dorothy Kalins


M.F.K. Fisher: Poet of the Appetites | The New School


Tequila, the OG Mexican Spirit


Truth About Food, The


West Africa in Mexican Rice Cultivation and Gastronomy



— changed URL —


Sporkful, The



— that’s all for now —


Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.


Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.


Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:


The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)


The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)


Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating

(Paper)
(Kindle)


How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)


The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)


Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...


...for the moment, anyway.


______________


The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #253 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.


Copyright ©2021 by Gary Allen.


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Doorstops and lavatory entertainments abound in our book store.