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Archives

Food Sites for June 2022

Friday, May 13, 2022

  

Ramps and fiddleheads...

 

...seasonal treats to harvest when morels—or trout—successfully elude our efforts to bring them to the table. If only theyd all cooperate. We imagine a dinner of morels & fiddleheads, with trout in ramp butter. Alas, Springs larder is as fickle as its weather. So we freeze ramp butter and dry morels for another time, another dinner, perhaps in the dead of Winter—when Spring is only a memory or a dream.

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing

 

We’ve continued posting our Substack newsletter. “Another Little Taste...” includes a sample from Ephemera; “You’ve Been Served...” features an essay from Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone); it’s not really a food book—but, as our gullet is adjacent to our brain pan, there’s plenty of culinary content in it. The Writing Life ...Whatever That Might Be is another Substack post; it’s an excerpt from How to Write a Great Book (which is not, at all, about food). As usual, a free subscription automatically delivers these things to your virtual mailbox—and no one will be the wiser (including you).

 

A couple of foraged comments, from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:

A white truffle, which elsewhere might sell for hundreds of dollars, seemed easier to come by than something fresh and green. What could be got from the woods was free and amounted to a diurnal dining diary that everyone kept in their heads. May was wild asparagus, arugula, and artichokes. June was wild lettuce and stinging nettles. July was cherries and wild strawberries. August was forest berries. September was porcini. Bill Buford

 

My fare is really sumptuous this evening; buffaloe’s humps, tongues and marrowbones, fine trout parched meal pepper and salt, and a good appetite; the last is not considered the least of the luxuries. Journals of Lewis and Clark, Thursday, June 13, 1805

Gary
June 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Krishnendu Ray), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —

 

Ancient Beer is Craft’s New Frontier

(Sara Toth Stub’s Sapiens article on collaborations between archaeologists and brewmasters)

 

Ancient Indigenous Oyster Fishing Practices Could Save Coastal Ecosystems, Study Finds

(Jennifer Walter’s Inverse article on oysters and water quality)

 

Armenia’s Culinary History Hides in a Museum’s Manuscripts

(Rafael Tonon reports, for Gastro Obscura, on ten manuscripts in the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of Ancient Manuscripts)

 

Battle to Invent the Automatic Rice Cooker, The

(Anne Ewbank chronicles the triumph of Japanese technology for Gastro Obscura)

 

Chemical Traces in Ancient West African Pots Show a Diet Rich in Plants

(Julie Dunne, in Phys Org, on recent archaeological findings from Nigeria)

 

Chinese Food Is a Celebration of Time and Place

(Clarissa Wei weighs in, at Epicurious, on authenticity vs. adaptability in Chinese cuisine)

 

Comprehensive History of Beer Brewing, A

(Franz Meussdoerffer’s chapter of 2009’s Handbook of Brewing: Processes, Technology, Markets)

 

Dutch Institute of Food & Design, The

(international group that publishes—among other things—Magazine F, each issue of which is devoted to a single ingredient)

 

Experiencing the Ancient Flavors of Recipes from the Bible

(Ronit Vered’s article in Haaretz—requires subscription)

 

How to Eat Like an Anglo-Saxon King

(Diana Hubbell debunks a few culinary myths for Gastro Obscura)

 

Inside Look at Judith Jones’ First Notes for Julia Child, An

(an excerpt from Helen Lefkowitz Horowitz’ Warming Up Julia Child: The Remarkable Figures Who Shaped a Legend that tells the story of the early days of editing Mastering the Art of French Cooking)

 

It’s a Small Aisle After All

(99 Percent Invisible takes on the grocery industry’s use of “ethnic aisles”)

 

Pizza by Any Other Name

(“Ah-BEETS,” you say? Jan Whitaker’s Restaurant-ing Through History site takes on pizza’s curious local monikers in Connecticut)

 

Precolonial First Nations Oyster Fisheries Sustained Millennia of Intense Harvests, Study Shows

(Donna Lu’s article, in The Guardian, on the scale and methodology of indigenous oyster culture)

 

What is a Pudding?

(British food: A History has an answer; no surprise, the word had different meanings on the opposite shores of the Atlantic)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

Advice for Future Food Writers

 

AI Sommelier Generates Wine Reviews without Ever Opening a Bottle

 

Art of Take-out, The


Aunty Sylvie’s Sponge: Foodmaking, Cookbooks and Nostalgia

 

Can This Cultivated Meat Startup Make Lion Meat a Thing?

 

Collapse of the Industrial Livestock Industry is Coming, The

 

Feminine Ending/Masculine Ending

 

High Art of Food Literature, The. Seriously?

 

How To Be Food Famous!

 

How to Organize, Clean, and Maintain Cookbooks

 

Just Reject Me

 

We Invented the Cow 10,000 Years Ago

 

Why are Many Modern Recipes a Challenge?

 

Why You Should Learn “Winespeak”

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

Comfort Foods for a Weary World

 

Culinary Media Network

 

How Black Culture Helped Define American Cuisine

 

Nopalitos: Taming the Prickly Pear Cactus

 

Pass the Chipotle Podcast

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:

 

As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Tabula Rasa, Baby: (Not Written in Stone)
(Paper)
(Kindle)


 


 

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #260 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


Food Sites for May 2022

Friday, April 15, 2022

  


Drying morels wantonly ejecting their spores all over our table.

 

May is, indeed a lusty, x-rated kind of month. Shameless birds sing their version of the NY Review of Books personal ads, hours before dawn, and flowers spew their pollen everywhere, with nary a blush. Even mushrooms want to get into the “spreading-the-seed” act.

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing

 

We’ve also started a new way to distribute our other writing: a Substack newsletter. The first post is entitled “Not Everything is about Food History.” A free subscription delivers titillating samples of our non-food-history scribbles to your virtual mailbox (there are two more posts, already)—in the proverbial plain brown wrapper—so no one need know about your furtive reading habits. Like Tom Lehrer’s old dope peddler, we “know full well that today’s young innocent faces will be tomorrow’s clientele.” 


Did you enjoy being described as a “young innocent face”? 

 

You’re welcome.

 

Some perspective, and advice, from On the Table’s culinary quote collection: 

 

I hate people who are not serious about meals. It is so shallow of them. Oscar Wilde

Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the ‘Titanic’ who waved off the dessert cart. Erma Bombeck

Many people claim coffee inspires them, but, as everybody knows, coffee only makes boring people even more boring. Honoré de Balzac

Food writing shouldn’t be precious, pretentious, or condescending. Just because you know what confit means doesn’t make you a better person. Adam Roberts

Gary
May, 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Bob DelGrosso), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —


All the Tea (Not) in China: The Story of How India Became a Tea-Drinking Nation
(Alex Downs’ article in Serious Eats)

 

Biblical Kings Drank Vanilla-Flavored Wine

(Nathan Steinmeyer, in Bible History Daily, on archaeological evidence of nearly three-thousend-year-old spice trade)

 

Hidden History of the Nutmeg Island That Was Traded for Manhattan, The

(Mark Hay’s Gastro Obscura article on spice trade and world politics—and how New Amsterdam became New York)

 

How Booze Is Used in the Making of Cheese

(Pamela Vachon’s article on washing and marinating cheeses with wine, beer, or spirits to develop new flavors)

 

It’s More Than Tacos: Inside LA’s First Mexican Food Museum

(Eva Recinos visits LA Plaza Cocina for The Guardian)

 

Malt Beverage

(technical article from Food and Agricultural History)

 

Olive Oil Times

(international news and articles about, and recipes for, olive oil)

 

Rome’s New Museum Dedicated to Cooking

(the BBC’s Ronan O’Connell tours the Museo della Cucina)

 

Unsung Women of the Betty Crocker Test Kitchens, The

(Anne Ewbank’s Gastro Obscura article, based on Susan Marks’ book, Finding Betty Crocker: The Secret Life of America’s First Lady of Food)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

10 Tips For Writers From Douglas Adams

 

12 Most Unforgettable Descriptions of Food in Literature, The

 

Are We Entering the Post-Natural Wine Era?

 

Boeuf Neanderthal!

 

Cooking with Dorothy Sayers

 

Curse of an Irish Cook, The

 

De-Bunking the Industry Bias Behind Plant-Based Meat

 

Eat Like a Medieval Saint With Her Recipe for “Cookies of Joy”

 

Haven’t We Told Julia Child’s Story Enough?

 

How to Write Award-Winning Cookbooks

 

Is Wine Tasting Nonsense?

 

Joy of Cooking Blasphemous Fusion Food, The

 

Mixologist Has Nine Lives, The

 

This Story Stinks

 

What Humanity Should Eat to Stay Healthy and Save the Planet

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

Stirring the Pot

 

Unreserved Wine Talk Podcast with Natalie MacLean, The

 

Women and Alcohol: History, Myths, and Trailblazers

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:

As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)
(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #259 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


Food Sites for April 2022

Saturday, March 19, 2022

  


Chef Julius, inventor of Caesar Salad.

 

As first recorded by Apicius, the earliest written record of the eponymous romaine salad made generous use of egg, hard cheese from the provinces, lemon, good olive oil, and garum—beaten like a galley slave—then lavished upon lactucae. The leaves untimely ripped, of course (as was the photo, from the internet). 

 

It is almost April First, and no better time than now to disseminate some food fakelore.

 

You can, if you wish, follow us on Facebook (where, among other things, we post a lot of photographs), and Twitter. Still more of our older online scribbles can be found at A Quiet Little Table in the Corner. There’s even an Amazon author’s page, mostly about our food writing.

 

More foolishness from On the Table’s culinary quote collection:

 

An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools. Ernest Hemingway

Drinking makes such fools of people, and people are such fools to begin with that it's compounding a felony. Robert Benchley

Some people have a foolish way of not minding, or of pretending not to mind, what they eat. For my part, I mind my belly very studiously and very carefully; for I look upon it that he who does not mind his belly will hardly mind anything else. Samuel Johnson

Gary
April, 2022

 

PS: If you encounter broken links, changed URLs—or know of wonderful sites we’ve missed—please drop us a line. It helps to keep this resource as useful as possible for all of us. To those who have pointed out corrections or tasty sites (this month we’re tipping our hat to Dianne Jacob), thanks, and keep them coming!

 

PPS: If you wish to change the e-mail address at which you receive these newsletters, or otherwise modify the way you receive our postings or—if you’ve received this newsletter by mistake, and/or don’t wish to receive future issues—you have our sincere apology and can have your e-mail address deleted from the list immediately. We’re happy (and continuously amazed) that so few people have decided to leave the list but, should you choose to be one of them, let us know and we’ll see that your in-box is never afflicted by these updates again.

 

 

— the new sites —

 

17 Delicious Types of Plums

(descriptions with photos, plus a short introduction to plum history)


Betty Crocker’s Cosmopolitan Kitchens

(Annie Ewbank’s Gastro Obscura interview with Susan Marks—author of Finding Betty Crocker: The Secret Life of America's First Lady of Food)

 

ckbk

(subscription-based searchable access to vast number of recipes, cookbooks, food reference books, author bios, and feature articles)

 

Food History and Gastronomic Traditions of Beans in Italy

(Giandomenico Corrado’s article in the Journal of Ethnic Foods)

 

Hymn of Ninkasi, The

(Kevin O’Briant’s 2017 article in Beyond Beer Magazine)

 

J. Kenji López-Alt Says You’re Cooking Just Fine

(Helen Rosner’s New Yorker interview)

 

Man Who Discovered Umami, The

(Veronique Greenwood’s article about Kikunae Ikeda, and the perception of taste, in BBC Future)

 

Medieval Influencer Who Convinced the World to Drink Tea, The—Not Eat It

(Miranda Brown’s Gastro Obscura article about Lu Yu—”the world’s greatest tea influencer”)

 

Necco Wafers: The Return of an American Candy Classic

(Aimee Tucker’s New England Today article about a candy that was in the pockets of many Civil War soldiers)

 

Peeling Onions, Layer by Layer

(Yasmin Amin’s paper on the use of two alliums in Islamic cookery; included in Insatiable Appetite: Food as Cultural Signifier in the Middle East and Beyond)

 

Recipe From a Talented Chef Enslaved by a Founding Father, A

(Natasha Frost’s Gastro Observer article about James Hemings, the cook in Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello kitchen)

 

Rise and Fall of Gruit, The

(Susan Verberg’s 2018 paper on the historical differences between beers made with hops and other herbs)

 

What Is the Arabesque Kitchen?

(N.A. Mansour’s Eater review of The Arabesque Table, discusses multiple varieties of Arabic cuisine)

 

What Makes Oaxacan Food Oaxacan?

(Bricia Lopez’s Eater piece on something that’s too complex to be covered by one word)

 

 

— inspirational (or otherwise useful) sites for writers/bloggers —

 

8 Tips to Become a Successful Content Writer

 

Anton Ego and the Critical Sense

 

Book by Another Name Would Also be Legible, A: The Limits of the Bibliography of African American Cookbooks

 

“Cultivated Meat is no Silver Bullet” by Carlo Petrini

 

Curious Case of Colonial India’s Breakfast Curries, The

 

Egg Cream

 

Food Writer Dishes on Black Culinary Traditions, A (and Top Spots to Experience Them)

 

History of the Last Time I Ate at a Chinese Buffet, A

 

How Apples Go Bad

 

How I Got My Job: Creating Weeknight Recipe Faves for Top Publications and Writing a Cookbook

 

I’m Common as Muck and Spent £150 in a Michelin Star Restaurant to See If It Was Worth It

 

Is Diet Writing Over?

 

John Locke’s Personal Pancake Recipe: “This Is the Right Way” to Make the Classic Breakfast Treat

 

Meet the Indispensable Bagel Rollers of NYC

 

National Cuisine Is a Useful Illusion

 

Reader Comments for The New York Times’ “Homestyle Spaghetti Carbonara” Recipe

 

Remembering Two Fat Ladies, the Perfect Fat-Positive Cooking Show

 

“The Automat” Is a Guide to the Wonders of Mid-Twentieth-Century Urbanism

 

To Evade Pre-Prohibition Drinking Laws, New Yorkers Created the World’s Worst Sandwich

 

Top 10 Cooks in Fiction

 

 

— podcasts, etcetera —

 

Dave Chang Show, The


Grounds for Revolution: the Stimulating 


Hot Dog Is a Sandwich, A


Joy of Cooking, The (Insects)


Lunch Therapy


New Secret Chicken Recipe, The? 

Animal Cells.


Out to Lunch with Jay Rayner


People Can’t Believe That THIS Is How Cashews Grow


See the True Cost of Your Cheap Chicken


Well-Seasoned Librarian, The: A Conversation About Food, Food Writing and More

When Sitting Bull Came to Dinner

(you’ll need to use this passcode: .p$1t74C [Note that the passcode starts with a period])


 

— changed URL —

 

What We Write About When We Write About Food

 

 

— that’s all for now —

 

Except, of course, for the usual legalistic mumbo-jumbo and commercial flim-flam:


As an Amazon Associate, this newsletter earns from qualifying purchases made through it. These include our own books (listed below), and occasional books mentioned in the entries above. If you order anything via those links, the price you pay is not increased by our commission.

 

Occasionally, URLs we provide may take you to commercial sites (that is, they’ll cost you money to take full advantage of them), or publications that have paywalls. We do not receive any compensation for listing them here, and provide them without any form of recommendation—other than the fact that they looked interesting to us.

 

Your privacy is important to us. We will not give, sell or share your e-mail address with anyone, for any purpose. Ever. Nonetheless, we will expose you to the following irredeemably brazen plugs for our own books:

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers
(Hardcover)
(Paper)
(Kindle)

(newsletters like this merely update the contents of the book; what doesn’t appear here is already in the book)

 

The Herbalist in the Kitchen
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food And Drink Industries
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Human Cuisine
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Herbs: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sausage: A Global History
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Can It! The Perils and Pleasures of Preserving Foods
(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Sauces Reconsidered: Après Escoffier

(Hardcover)
(Kindle)

 

Terms of Vegery
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Serve Man:
On Cannibalism, Sex, Sacrifice, & the Nature of Eating
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

How to Write a Great Book

(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Ephemera: a short collection of short stories
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Prophet Amidst Losses
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Cenotaphs
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Future Tense: Remembrance of Things Not Yet Past
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Backstories: As retold by Gary Allen
(Paper)
(Kindle)

 

Here endeth the sales pitch(es)...

 

...for the moment, anyway.

 

______________

 

The Resource Guide for Food Writers, Update #258 is protected by copyright, and is provided at no cost, for your personal use only. It may not be copied or retransmitted unless this notice remains affixed. Any other form of republication—unless with the author’s prior written permission—is strictly prohibited.

 

Copyright ©2022 by Gary Allen.


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Doorstops and lavatory entertainments abound in our book store.